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Guide to Building Your Home — Construction-to-Permanent Loans Explained

From raw lot to move-in day. Everything you need to know about financing a new build or major renovation — without the traps most borrowers fall into. No fluff. No sales pitch. Just 30 years of construction lending experience on one page.

Written by Sean Shallis — 30+ years in mortgage strategy, currently building his own home using these exact strategies (102 Wiltop Rd, Flemington NJ).

30 min read·Last updated: May 2026·NMLS #2362814

Why This Guide Is Different

Generic bank brochure about construction loans
Written by someone actively building his own home with these strategies
"Talk to your builder" as the answer to every budget question
Real numbers, real draw schedules, real cost breakdowns from an active project
Assumes you're using a GC with a 20-30% markup
Includes the Project Guardian approach — source direct, save $50K-$100K+
Ends at closing with no mention of rate monitoring
Covers construction through permanent financing and ongoing rate optimization

Chapter 1: What Is a Construction-to-Permanent Loan?

A construction-to-permanent loan (also called a “single-close” or “one-time-close” construction loan) finances the entire home building process — from breaking ground to move-in day — with one application, one closing, and one set of fees.

How It Works

  1. You close once. Before construction begins, you lock your permanent mortgage terms — rate, term, everything.
  2. During construction (12-18 months typically): You pay interest-only on the amount drawn. If your total loan is $800K but only $200K has been drawn for land and foundation, you pay interest on $200K.
  3. At completion: The loan automatically converts to your permanent mortgage. No second closing. No second set of fees. No requalification.

Single Close vs. Two-Close: Why It Matters

The alternative is the “two-close” approach: you get a short-term construction loan from one lender, then refinance into a permanent mortgage with another lender (or the same one) after the home is built.

Single CloseTwo-Close
Closings12
Closing costsOne set ($5K-$10K)Two sets ($10K-$25K)
Rate lockLocked at startUnknown until build complete
Requalification riskNoneMust requalify after build
Rate riskNone — locked from day 1If rates rise during build, you pay more

Interest-Only During Construction

This is one of the best features. During the 12-18 month build, you only pay interest on the money that has been drawn — not the full loan amount. On an $800K loan, your first month's payment might be $500-$800 (interest on the land draw only). Payments increase gradually as more draws are made. You're not carrying a full mortgage payment while also paying rent or another mortgage.

Chapter 2: Is Building Right for You?

Building a home is not for everyone. Here's an honest assessment of when it makes sense — and when it doesn't.

Custom Build vs. Buying Existing

Build When...

  • You can't find what you want in your target area
  • You have a lot or know where to find one
  • You're planning to stay 7+ years
  • You want energy efficiency, modern systems, and no deferred maintenance
  • You have the patience for a 12-18 month process

Buy Existing When...

  • You need to move in within 60 days
  • The market has exactly what you want
  • You don't want to manage a build process
  • Land is scarce or overpriced in your area
  • Budget is tight with no contingency buffer

The Renovation-to-Permanent Option

There's a middle ground many people miss: buy an existing home and renovate it with a single-close renovation-to-permanent loan. You finance the purchase PLUS the renovation based on the after-renovation value. One closing. One mortgage. This is ideal when you find a home with “good bones” in the right location but it needs a gut reno or major updates.

Timeline Expectations

Be honest with yourself about timelines:

  • Custom build (ground-up): 12-18 months from loan close to move-in. Plan for 18.
  • Major renovation: 6-12 months depending on scope.
  • Buying existing: 30-45 days from contract to close.

If you're relocating for a job that starts in 90 days, a ground-up build is almost never realistic. Consider buying existing or doing a renovation-to-perm on a home that's livable during construction.

Chapter 3: The Numbers — What Building Actually Costs

Most guides give you vague ranges. Here are real numbers from projects I've financed and from my own build.

The Three Components

  1. Land: The lot or existing property you're building on. Can be purchased with the construction loan or brought in as equity if you already own it.
  2. Construction (hard costs): Materials, labor, permits, site work, systems (HVAC, plumbing, electrical), finishes.
  3. Soft costs: Architecture, engineering, permits, inspections, contingency reserve.

The Draw Schedule — How You Get Paid (and Pay)

Construction loans don't give you all the money at once. Funds are released in “draws” as construction milestones are completed. A typical draw schedule:

DrawMilestone% of Loan
1Land purchase / lot close15-25%
2Foundation complete10-15%
3Framing complete / dried in20-25%
4Rough-in (MEP — mechanical, electrical, plumbing)15-20%
5Drywall / interior finishes15-20%
6Final — CO issued, punch list complete10-15%

Each draw requires an inspection by the lender's representative to verify the work is complete before releasing funds. This protects you AND the bank.

Contingency Reserves — The Non-Negotiable

Every construction project encounters surprises. Rock under the foundation. Supply chain delays. A change order because the kitchen layout doesn't work once you see it in 3D. Industry standard is a 10-15% contingency reservebuilt into your budget. If your hard costs are $500K, budget $550K-$575K. This isn't pessimism — it's experience.

Real Cost Breakdown (NJ/NY Metro, 2025-2026)

For a 3,000-3,500 sq ft custom home in the NJ/NY metro area:

  • Land: $150K-$400K (varies wildly by municipality)
  • Site work (clearing, grading, utilities): $30K-$75K
  • Foundation: $30K-$50K
  • Framing + roofing: $80K-$130K
  • MEP (mechanical, electrical, plumbing): $60K-$100K
  • Insulation + drywall: $25K-$40K
  • Interior finishes (cabinets, flooring, tile, fixtures): $80K-$150K
  • Exterior (siding, windows, doors): $40K-$70K
  • Permits + engineering + architecture: $20K-$40K
  • Contingency (10-15%): $50K-$80K

Total range: $565K-$1.1M+(excluding land) depending on finishes, complexity, and location. Add land and you're typically at $750K-$1.5M all-in for the NJ/NY metro.

What most people don't realize:A general contractor adds 20-30% markup on top of every sub-contractor's bid. On a $500K build, that's $100K-$150K in GC fees alone. There's another way. I'll cover it in Chapter 6.

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About the Author

Sean Shallis is a Mortgage Loan Originator (NMLS #2362814) at U.S. Bank with 30+ years of experience and over $1B in closed transactions. He's currently building his own home using the exact strategies outlined in this guide. He's a U.S. Army veteran, an Amazon #1 best-selling author, married to a physician, and the creator of Rate Guardian AI. He doesn't sling loans and rates — he builds wealth-building loan strategies, one family at a time.

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